Situated on a rocky hill in the dry, barren region of Anatolia, Ankara can trace its history back to the bronze age, and has been a protagonist in major events through several great civilisations, including the Phrygians, Lydians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Galatians and Ottomans. Indeed, no less a figure than Alexander the Great stayed in the city for a period during his empire building.
Today, Ankara is a fascinating fusion of east and west, where shades of the mystical east and ancient civilisations lie partially hidden among 20th-century office buildings and shopping malls. A student town filled with language schools, universities, colleges and military bases, the city pulsates with a spirit of modernity and youth. It also has a substantial ex-pat community (most of it diplomatic), which adds to the cosmopolitan atmosphere.
Esenboga International Airport is located northeast of Ankara, 28km from the city centre. International direct flights are fairly limited, with the most regular services being with Lufthansa airline (owing to the 4 million Turks living in Germany).
To connect from the airport to the city centre, Havas operates a regular service that will take you into Ankara central city terminal, stopping at various points en route.
If you are flying into another part of Turkey, you can get internal flights to Ankara from Istanbul, Izmir, Antalya and smaller airports with great ease and at reasonable cost.
Ankara’s modern bus station is located about 5km south west of the city centre, and is arguably the most useful transport hub in Turkey, with services to a multitude of domestic and international destinations.
Being in the centre of Turkey, Ankara is also the country's main rail network hub and connects to many destinations - although journeys are notoriously slow. The trip from Istanbul to Ankara takes around 5 and a half hours with a changeover.
The climate in Ankara is typically continental, with long and pleasantly hot summer days giving way to cool evenings. There is little rainfall or humidity throughout these months. The winters are cold with some rain and snow.
Being a Muslim nation, you should check when the religious festivals take place, such as Ramadan (September) and Eid (February), as a lot of amenities and attractions will shut down during these periods. Of course, you may want to sample the city during these holy occasions, as they can often be colourful as well as culturally insightful.
Ankara is a great city for culture lovers, brimming with museums, monuments and buildings of historical importance.
On the hill with Ankara's ancient Citadel is the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, which holds artifacts from 7,500 years ago. Downhill towards Samanpazari is the Seljuk Turkish Ahi Serafettin Mosque & Tomb. Be aware, however, that the mosque is usually open only at prayer times.
Near Ulus Square are several Roman artifacts, including the ruined Temple of Augustus and Rome and the Column of Julian. Also worth visiting is the Anitkabir, an impressive Mausoleum housing Kemal Atatürk, the revered founder of the Turkish Republic.
If you’ve had your fill of history, and fancy some retail therapy, Ankara has some interesting shopping options (though just to bring you down to earth, the city also boasts two Marks and Spencers stores).
For starters, Ankara is one of the best places to buy carpets in Turkey. The city is also an antique buyer’s paradise, and if you walk towards Ankara Kalesi you will find the old and famous antique area called Çıkrıkçılar Yokuşu. Additionally, if you are looking for antiques, you won't want to miss the weekly Antika Pazarı in Ayrancı held on the first Sunday every month.
The nightlife in Ankara is fairly sedate – certainly compared to Istanbul – though in summertime there are a lot of bars, cafes and clubs with gardens and open courtyards. To have a beer you should stroll around in Kizilay (Red Moon) in the town centre, where you will find a number of parallel streets full of small beer gardens with spicy food and live Turkish music.
It may surprise visitors to know that skiing is an option around Antalya. About 50km from the city is the ski resort of Saklıkent. If you visit in March, there is actually enough snow for you to ski in the morning, and then enough warmth to enjoy a dip in the sea in the afternoon at nearby Konyaaltı Beach.